Almost unappealing in appearance, Sal and Carmine’s plain slice hides a depth of flavor and texture. Its neapolitan crust, baked just below the benchmark of sophistication, is chewy, slightly charred, slightly salty and dusted with the same flour that, without fail, rubs off your two dollars in change. Its light sauce is at one with olive oil, producing a slightly tangy flavor that those reared on sweet, rich tomato sauces might consider a severe miscalculation. It’s not. Seamlessly unified with a generous layer of whole-fat mozzarella, Sal and Carmine’s sauce completes cheese in a way other slices can only imagine. The result is a rich, salty, oily flavor that is the stuff of classics.