The perfectly translucent, freshly steamed, shrimp-and-ginger-stuffed dumplings at Wing Lee are reason enough for me to trek across town and wait in line with the Richmond's entire population at prime dim-sum-eating time. Don't judge the food (quick and dirty, mostly) by some fancy Yank Sing standards; everything I've had here is as amazing and delicious as the tea-time meals I've enjoyed in Hong Kong. It helps that you can stuff yourself silly on dumplings and steamed buns for five bucks, but honestly, I'd still order the har gow if they cost me $20.